Mini-Split vs Central AC
If you already have ducts, central AC is almost always cheaper. If you don't, or you have one stubborn room that won't cool, a mini-split changes the math.
Central AC
Ducted forced-air, one outdoor unit, whole-home distribution
- Cooling the whole house at once is the cheapest path per ton
- Air filtration handled at one return — easier IAQ upgrades
- Familiar — every Utah tech can service ducted equipment
- Aesthetic — no wall-mounted indoor units
- Requires functional ductwork — adding ducts to a non-ducted home is $8,000-$20,000
- Single-zone unless you add zoning dampers
- Duct leakage in attics costs 20-30% of capacity in Utah's hot summers
Homes that already have ductwork (most Utah single-family homes built 1970+).
Mini-Split
Ductless heat pump — wall-mounted indoor heads
- No ducts needed — best for additions, basements, ADUs, garages, sunrooms
- Per-room zoning — each head is independently controlled
- Highest efficiency — modern Mitsubishi Hyper Heat / Daikin Fit units hit 22+ SEER
- Heat + cool — works as primary or supplemental in mild Utah climates
- IRA tax credit eligible (when configured as heat pump)
- Higher per-ton cost than central AC if doing the whole house
- Wall-mounted indoor units are visible (ceiling cassettes available but pricier)
- Each head needs a refrigerant line set + condensate drain — install complexity
Homes without ducts, additions, ADUs, basements, garages, sunrooms, that one room that never cools, second-floor offices in warm-roof homes.
Our Recommendation
If you have working ducts: central AC. If you don't: mini-split. If you have one problem room (second-floor bedroom, sunroom, basement office), a single-zone mini-split as a supplement to your existing central is the right call — about $4,000-$6,000 and it solves a problem your central system never could.
Still on the fence?
Free in-home estimates with both/all options quoted side-by-side. No pressure, no obligation — just the numbers for your home.
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